The Moonwatch’s underrated cousin you never heard about, but should definitely get to know – meet the Dynamic III Chronograph from Omega.

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When it comes to watches, it’s hard to deny that Omega’s Moonwatch has one of the best (if not the best) backstories. Arguably Omega’s most iconic watch, the Speedy has captured the hearts of both enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike since 1957, and continues to do so today – who can forget the MoonSwatch mania that hit us back in March 2022?

Alas, the Speedmaster’s popularity comes with a commensurate price tag which may not be for everybody. But that doesn’t mean that you’ll need to pack your tents and join the mobs waiting eagerly for the next MoonSwatch-like drop yet. What if I told you that there was another chronograph by Omega, with its own interesting history at less than half the price of a used Speedy?

Well, I’m letting the cat out of the bag – meet the Omega Dynamic III Chronograph.

Okay fine, it’s somewhat of an open secret at this point, but the Dynamic III still flies just below the radar, and I don’t think it’s too late to get in on this.

The Dynamic III, as its name suggests is actually the third generation of Omega’s Dynamic line of watches, a line that was first launched in the 1960s. It was Omega’s way of breaking away from tradition and embracing the modern – hence “Dynamic”. The Dynamic I (1969) certainly looked the part, adopting an oval case apparently optimised to sit perfectly on the human wrist, while the strap was sandwiched between the case and the caseback. To access it, one opened the case from the dial side, allowing for an easy change of straps.

If Omega wanted to be different, they certainly managed to do it with the Dynamic I, and for the most part, I don’t think I’ve seen anything quite like this yet.

The Dynamic II continued the story in 1984, with a similar case shape but with a different bezel design and a quartz movement. It’s interesting to see how the watches captured the zeitgeist of their time, and the Dynamic II maintained the uniqueness (or should I say quirkiness?) of the Dynamic series.

That brings us to the final chapter of the story, and the watch in question today: the Dynamic III. Right off the bat, you’ll notice that something looks markedly different. In fact, the Dynamic III looks nothing like the I and II. It’s designed was based off WWII pilot’s watches, and was targeted at the younger generation back in 1997 when it first debuted. An automatic 3-hander in similar design language was also released. Strangely, the watch never caught on and was discontinued in 1999, which if you ask me is a shame. The Dynamic III has continued to sit quietly at more affordable prices on the resale market since, save for the occasional resurgence amongst those in the know.

The Case & Specifications

The Omega Dynamic III Chronograph comes in at a case size of 38mm (42mm with crown, 43mm to pushers), a lug width of 20mm and lug to lug of 42mm. On paper, the Dynamic III is a very wearable watch, and it definitely lives up to expectation. Chronographs tend to be larger these days, and enthusiasts with smaller wrists will definitely appreciate the compact case dimensions.

That being said, the Dynamic III Chronograph still maintains a strong wrist presence, with a comfortable weight to it. This is partially due to its case shape and those oh-so-lovely-vintage-looking pushers, which make the watch appear larger than it really is. The case adopts a somewhat stepped design, with a sapphire crystal sitting proud of the case by roughly 2mm. This gives it a vintage-box-y look, though my guess is much of the watch crowd would have preferred to keep it flush with the case to protect the crystal. Thus far, I haven’t had much concern, so I’m fine with it as is.

Flipping the Dynamic on the side, you will notice that the pushers and crown aren’t actually aligned. No, this isn’t a manufacturing error, but a deliberate choice as a result of the movement construction. The watch utilises a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module sitting atop an automatic movement (much like the Speedmaster Reduced), resulting in the pushers sitting offset of the crown. Before seeing it in the metal, I was slightly concerned that it would look odd, but it’s not very noticeable and actually makes the piece all the more charming.

The screw-down crown is signed with the Omega logo, and knurled for better grip. Operating the crown is a breeze and winding the watch is a therapeutic experience.

In a nod to the military watches it pays homage to, the Dynamic III features brushed finishing throughout. I’ve always liked a brushed finish as it makes it less prone to scratches, and is slightly less eye catching.

On the screwdown caseback, you will find a simple engraving of the Omega logo, which is rather utilitarian – no decorations here, which is reasonable considering it was marketed as a more entry level watch back in the day. Water resistance is rated at 50m, but you definitely don’t want to test that as by now, all specimens of the Dynamic III “species” would have already reached neo-vintage age.

The Dial

Looking at the dial of the Dynamic III Chronograph never fails to leave me with a sense of satisfaction. The dial has been executed in a perfect balance of utility and playfulness. Large, white Breguet-style numerals printed on a black background promise high levels of legibility, while accents of yellow punctuate the scene to add that dash of colour.

A 30-second chronograph sub-register sits at 9 o’clock, while the running seconds sub-dial sits at 3 o’clock. While it appears to simply be printed, the sub-dials are actually separate layers, though you will have to look closely to notice this.

The Dynamic III is particularly interesting, because there are actually 4 dial variants you could possibly get your hands on. If you pay attention to the 30 minute chronograph sub-dial, you will notice 3 extended yellow lines, marking out the 3, 6 and 9 minute mark. Apparently payphones (yes remember those!) charged the callers at those timings, so the chronograph could be used in a call to watch the bill. I have to admit that didn’t apply here in Singapore, but still an interesting fun fact nonetheless.

Another version of the 30 minute chronograph sub-dial exists, where the minute markers sit in an inner ring, with the numerals being printed on their outside (versus the one I have, where the markers are on the outside and the numerals are on the inside). Why Omega made 2 versions, I have no idea – but that’s what makes collecting fun isn’t it?

The last difference shows itself in the dark: lume. Omega first made the Dynamic III with tritium lume applied on the numerals and hands – it’s easy to tell which is which from the tell tale egg-shell-yellowed numerals and hands that accompany tritium dials that have undergone the test of time. Omega eventually switched to Superluminova, with these pieces typically retaining a whiter hand set and numerals (like mine).

The Movement

The Dynamic III Chronograph is powerd by the Calibre 1138 movement, which is an ETA 2890-A2 movement with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module on top of it. It’s more famous cousin, the Omega Speedmaster Reduced features a similar construction.

The movement features hacking and hand-winding – I have no idea on the accuracy, though it has proven itself to be reliable thus far. In this case, accuracy probably isn’t your main concern anyway.

Trawling through the net, I read that when these modular chronographs run into issues, the entire module is replaced, and you will likely need to return to Omega for this, which may drive up the cost of ownership. Thankfully, mine seems to be doing fine so far, but you may want to check with your seller on the service history if this is a concern.

Chronograph pushers are crisp; the pusher at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph, while the pusher at 4 resets it, with the hands snapping back instantly into position.

The Strap

Interestingly, the stock bracelet is one of the best features of the Dynamic III chronograph. Looking very unassuming, it has easily become the most comfortable bracelet I have tried to date. The bracelet starts at 20mm, then tapers down to 16mm with an 18mm signed folding clasp offering 6 micro adjustments. A pet peeve of mine is when brands don’t provide enough micro adjustments, so props to Omega for this one.

On multiple occasions, the watch has gotten compliments for the bracelet alone, and I fully agree that it completes the look perfectly.

Styling

The Dynamic III chronograph is fabulous on the bracelet, and I’ve kept it that way since. It’s probably a strap monster though, and I think pretty much anything would look good with it from Nato’s to leather straps.

On wrist, the Dynamic III has some seriously good proportions, which I attempt to demonstrate here. It looks good on wrists both big and small, and there’s just something so charming about it.

The Price

In Singapore, I’ve seen this go for between SGD$2300 – SGD$4000+ (USD1725 – 3000+). If you can score something on the lower end of the spectrum, I’d think its definitely worth the price.

Overall Thoughts

The Omega Dynamic III Chronograph is something of an open secret, yet continues to remain somewhat a hidden gem. Beneath its tool-like exterior lies an interesting story – and isn’t that what we’re all after when it comes to watches? The Dynamic III ticks all the boxes – brand, history, specifications, wearability, design; you name, its got it.

It’s not easy finding chronographs at smaller case sizes with more affordable price points, and the Dynamic III chronograph offers a more budget friendly alternative into the Omega family while retaining its uniqueness. With its different variations, hunting for the piece that you want almost becomes a game – score a good deal and I’d say you’re a winner.

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